The Handloom business of the Indian nation is one among the foremost lovely and expert sectors. However, with the appearance of power looms and artificial textiles this business has been troubled. With the present crisis of the COVID-19 pandemic and different natural disasters, the business has got to take another blow. As people, we have a tendency to do too to preserve the bread and butter alongside the traditional techniques and art forms that have passed down generations for many years.
Odisha has a prestigious Legacy of Traditional Handloom-weaving. Its history dates back to 600 BC and is linked to Lord Jagannath. For generations and generations, the handloom-weavers of Odisha have been weaving and fabricating rich works of this art, endorsing the exquisite tradition of the state. These handwoven mostly include Sarees made of pure silk and cotton with unique designs and a spectacular range of colors. Designs that are so skillfully woven by Odia weavers, have won National Handloom Awards. Handloom groups are found in many places of the state like Bargarh, Barpali, Boudh, Berhampur, Cuttack(nuapatna), Sambalpur, Sonepur, etc.
Some of these handlooms have also gained Geographical Indications (GI) like:
Sambalpuri Sarees
They are known for the incorporation of traditional motifs like shankha(shell), chakra(wheel), phula(flower), all of which have deep symbolism with native Odia color red, black, and white represents true Odia culture along with Lord Kaalia (Jagannath)'s face color but the highpoint of these saris is the traditional craftsmanship of the 'Bandhakala' the Tie-Dye art reflected in their intricate weaves, also known as Sambalpuri Ikat
Berhampur Patta Sarees & Joda
Berhampur-Silk city of India produces unique silk sarees unique due to its Odissi style of weaving and khumba, particularly phoda (temple type designs) and its Zari works border design. This weaving technique is said to have originated about 200 years ago.
Pasapali Sarees or Saktapar Sarees
Handwoven in Bargarh, Orissa the Saktapar or Pasapalli saree is an ikat saree. The design and weave of the saree are inspired by the checkerboard or 'passa' as it is called in the local language. The saree is woven in double ikat that produces a checkerboard pattern and its border is often braced and gives the overall saree a sophisticated look. The colors are always vibrant and bright.
Bomkai or Sonepur Sarees
Bomkai sarees are Often woven in soft silk or cotton, the Bomkai silk saree uses a combination of Ikat weaving along with silk or Resham thread embroidery on the pallav and the border whereas cotton sarees often have embroidered temple spires on the pallav and the border. The sarees mostly have a plain body with detailed pallav. The body of the saree can also have very small ikat designs, and the pallav mostly have very intricate patterns along with ikat weaving. The motifs are inspired by tribal art, and mostly have nature-based themes, and contain colors mostly bright shades of black, red, yellow, orange, and blue.
Odisha Khandua Sarees
Khandua sarees are one of the most intricate designs of Orissa ikat sarees, made with soft silk or Malda silk and have a very intricate pattern. Traditionally, Khandua sarees are made in red, sunset yellow, and orange colors. These Sarees border mostly has a phoda(temple-like) ikat design or sometimes basic ikat pattern generally in black, red, and blue colors. The pallav has very detailed ikat work, which takes a long time to weave. These types of sarees are worn by the women in Orissa during weddings and other festive events.
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